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Marquesas (take 2) and breaking the fishing curse

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Our new digs; topographically, this place is basically the opposite of the atolls of the Tuamotus Long time readers may remember that SV L'ORIENT sailed 28 days non-stop from Panama to Nuku Hiva in the beguiling Marquesas, arriving in that fateful month of April 2020. During that month at sea, with little to no internet news, we missed the massive escalation of COVID-19 through the world and arrived quite surprised by the state of affairs in French Polynesia. What's that French warship doing in the bay? We are restricted to our boat? Really? Everything is closed on shore? We envisioned our arrival as being a 3-year carnival of alcoholic drinks served in coconuts, Polynesian festivals and food, and lots of water-based recreation. The harsh reality was a bit different........retreating from French Polynesia to Hawaii after only 8 days under the threat of forced repatriation and separation from our boat (and home). Tears were shed as we left the bay past the French warship, sent t...

Jacques Cou-who ? Diving with sharks and navigating the Fakarava food desert

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The dangerous sharks are 50% bigger and don't typically enter the reef... so far It's really "game on" now. This is the real South Pacific. Finding food? Not that easy. Being food? Watch out....that's not too hard, as the shark population easily outnumbers the people here. So perfect it looks like a movie set..........our swimming hole We're hanging out in Fakarava, in the Tuamotus. In a few weeks (hopefully), there will be East South East wind which will make possible our jump to the Marquesas. But until then, we've established a comfortable routine of swimming, diving, boat projects, and yes sailing. Sailing? Thanks to SV Creampuff for this pic of L'ORIENT Fakarava is a large atoll, basically a ring of land running roughly North West to South East. Inside this ring is about 30 miles of "ocean" (really more like a lake). When traveling from the North to the South, you're not really in the ocean unless you leave through a pass. So think o...

Deeper into nowhere.....from Rangiroa to Toau and Fakarava

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Drop table scraps at your own risk (sharks) We stayed in Rangiroa for three weeks. As our provisions were running out, we figured out how to order food online for delivery by the weekly supply ship that keeps "Rangi's" small population from starving. Surprisingly, it worked like clockwork.......small freighter arrives at daybreak, crew brings the boxes marked "L'ORIENT" ashore, and they even used a forklift to move the boxes closer to our dinghy. As the mostly local crowd gathered, there was very little confusion on the small dock as to who ordered what......we sheepishly gathered our Bordeaux and Cabernet and made off. OK, we ordered real food as well. Easier than Whole Foods! We are now big fans and shop ONLY by freighter. Our tramp steamer delivers the goods- the once a week lifeline for Rangiroa Most days included a dive in the conveniently located pass just across from our anchorage. The current runs either in or out of the atoll at speeds of 3-4 knots...