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| The dangerous sharks are 50% bigger and don't typically enter the reef... so far |
It's really "game on" now. This is the real South Pacific. Finding food? Not that easy. Being food? Watch out....that's not too hard, as the shark population easily outnumbers the people here.
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| So perfect it looks like a movie set..........our swimming hole |
We're hanging out in Fakarava, in the Tuamotus. In a few weeks (hopefully), there will be East South East wind which will make possible our jump to the Marquesas. But until then, we've established a comfortable routine of swimming, diving, boat projects, and yes sailing. Sailing?
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| Thanks to SV Creampuff for this pic of L'ORIENT |
Fakarava is a large atoll, basically a ring of land running roughly North West to South East. Inside this ring is about 30 miles of "ocean" (really more like a lake). When traveling from the North to the South, you're not really in the ocean unless you leave through a pass. So think of it as sailing in a large swimming pool. The sailing within the atoll is amazing, with wind, low waves, and pretty well marked coral heads.
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| Hit this with your boat and it's game over- the dreaded Tuamotus coral bommie (they're everywhere) |
Our gas station, food store, and a few restaurant options are in the North, while diving and water sports are in the South, about a 5 hour sail away. So we've commuted within the atoll quite a bit. The scenery is breathtaking. Palm trees, beaches, and very, very, few people. Internet has been problematic. As I write this, our router is in a water-proof bag which must be hoisted to the top of our 6 story mast. That's the only way we can receive a signal strong enough to do anything. Very "Gilligan's Island". The only thing missing is talking into a coconut phone. Each day begins with the ritualistic "hoisting of the router".
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| Our favorite swimming hole- the sand is as fine as flour |
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| Two views of Kirstin's paddle board course; it's like paddling and snorkeling at the same time |
We love it here. The island gives off this weird "chill vibe". It's very easy to be relaxed here. Since we're shielded from the ocean, the boat seldom rolls. The wind has been great, and it actually gets a bit chilly at night. The star viewing is also great here as there is very little light pollution from land. Shooting stars, satellites tracking across the sky.........are all quite common here.
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| Scene of Tom's birthday present |
Our routine is wonderful. We wake up slowly (despite the sun rising obnoxiously at 5:15 AM here in the Southern Hemisphere). After breakfast we go to our swimming hole, a 4 ft. deep beach area with sand that has the consistency of flour. Very strange sensation. Then paddle boarding, kayaking, swimming, diving, boat projects, happy hour, dinner, and rinse/repeat.
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| Prep work for our beach pig roast.....this little porker was the "guest of honor" |
Food here is a problem as now that we're anchored at Hirifa (in the south of Fakarava) there are no restaurants. We were fortunate enough to be invited to a pig roast on the beach, but we're living off the huge order we made from our tramp steamer supply ship a few weeks ago. So far, so good. Kirstin has gotten ahead of our freezer problems of last month, and we think almost everything we have stored is in good shape. The joys of a battery operated freezer.
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| Slim pickings in Fakarava; those apples could cause a shopper's brawl |
The rest of the boat is behaving itself- an autopilot problem was resolved, some rigging issues mended. The reason to be here though is largely the diving. For whatever reason, sharks congregate in the passes, especially the South Pass (which is near us). This is apparently quite a famous dive.........if you're a big time diver, it's on your bucket list. We have done a few dives there and plan to do more. We've never seen this many sharks in one place.........more than 100. They don't engage with you though- if you're not food, and not a threat to them you are basically invisible.
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| Mostly reef sharks (harmless) just cruising around |
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| Not the perfect pic, but count the sharks - we see 13 |
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| And to think I'm Medicare eligible in 6 years |
With us here are about 15 other boats, mostly short term charters with a few cruisers mixed in. Since COVID, it's considered rude to go to another boat uninvited and start chatting. People are a little more guarded these days. We've met a few interesting people including some Americans raising 2 year old twins on a catamaran. Quite a challenge. All day there is the constant activity of the kite boarders, some more skilled than others. We just hope their kites clear our mast so that our antennas and wind instruments don't end up in the water.
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| Kirstin's paddle board adventures- the clarity of the water masks that the coral is 2 ft under the surface |
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| Any perfect day can be interrupted by a squall packing 40 knot winds....get back to the boat fast ! |
So we're basically in a wonderful holding pattern. We're waiting for the right wind to leave the Tuamotus, but never disappointed when we don't get it. This place is relaxing, stunningly beautiful, and has everything we like in a place to have fun. Enjoy the pictures.
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| So clear you can see individual pebbles on the bottom |
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| View from the bow.......not bad |
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| I checked as tax day approached; a pot of Leprechaun gold is reportable income |
