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| Defending champs; teams are neighborhood based (looks like everyone in the neighborhood is aboard) |
We were reintroduced to passage making on our "jaunt" from Bora Bora to Pago Pago. Wind on the stern quarter the whole way with good size waves, meaning a super rolly ride with little sleep and things crashing down below. Eight days of fitful mini-naps with the heel of the boat so violent that Kirstin resorted to sleeping on the cockpit floor.
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| Approaching Pago Pago- had to wait offshore most of the night because we got here too late |
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| Rattled, rolled, but still in one piece |
Upon arrival, we were subjected to bureaucratic terrorism on a level never seen before. The harbor master told us to anchor in the bay. He then called to ask how our anchoring went. "Fine, sir". "Well, I need you to bring your boat back to the dock". Strange.......but whatever. The dock he made us tie up against was suitable only for large freighters, and had dangerous protrusions which could crush our solar panels. But he's the boss.
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| Law enforcement lined up to hassle us; can't they carpool? |
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| Right next to us a huge forklift moving large propane tanks; hope he didn't have a few beers at lunch |
Then, no fewer than three K9 units from the police and customs drove up, oddly without their animals. Our boat was subjected to a thorough search, papers were stamped and re-stamped. Then out of nowhere, three Chinese commercial fishing boats arrived and moored about 12 inches ahead of us, complicating our maneuver to get off the dock. Fine. No sleep for eight days and now all of this happens. When we were released from the dock we had to maneuver gently passed the 3 Chinese boats and we were able to go back to our anchoring spot. But wait; now a team of guys is stretching a festooned string of banners across the whole bay; the finish line for the rowing race this weekend. The line goes right over where I wanted to re-anchor. So we need to anchor on the far more dangerous side of the bay among the derelict boats and barges. Can this get any better? Of course, because later the next day a huge squall blows up in the bay and causes us to drag our anchor, not once but several times. The first time was the most dramatic as it is pouring with rain and gusts to 35 knots. We are dragging and coming uncomfortably close to several dilapidated boats but the windlass is battling to pull up the anchor. When we got the anchor up the problem was clear - we weren't moving anymore because we had at least eight lines of various sizes wrapped around our anchor. Out I go in the dinghy to cut them off while Kirstin takes the wheel. What fun! This bay was hit by a tsunami in 2009 and there is all kinds of debris on the bottom which makes anchoring here an exercise in futility.
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| What is that I smell? The massive Sunkist tuna cannery - our neighbor |
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| Some legit huge fishing boats |
So, while we were able to pick up our mailed boat parts and do some quick shopping, we now don't leave the boat for long and stay on the boat if there is any wind. The dragging incident resulted in us being on anchor watch all night and listening to our chain clatter against who knows what under the water.......cars, houses, dead bodies.
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| Anchoring here makes it feel like the end times are upon us - local bus |
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| Local transport- home made bus body on a truck frame |
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| Wood, iron, and exposed electrical system |
Our quick sightseeing walk was proceeding well when Kirstin saw a large (three ft) bat land in the tree above her. We then decided it was time to turn around when the other 30 bats in the tree all started chattering and stretching their wings in a very Count Dracula kind of way. Super creepy !
The much talked about Fautasi rowing race - that began oddly early at 6:30am - was shortened from seven miles to four miles due to the terrible weather conditions. Fautasi's are serious Samoan traditional rowing boats - 40-50 men row these 100 foot long beasts. We were told that a few years ago the yellow team sank during the ocean leg. Despite the shorter race, another team was swamped this year. The red team won, and the team we were supporting (a local customs agent was on the team) came in a disappointing 4th despite being the favorite, at least in his eyes. Maybe next year, team yellow.
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The winning team in the race (the red team)
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| This fishing net must weigh thousands of pounds when full |
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| The administrative nerve center of this metropolis |
As we wait for a weather window to continue on to Apia, Samoa we have been subjected to squall after squall packing big wind and rain of incredible intensity. When it's not raining, it's threatening to rain or it's just rained and will rain again soon. We read before coming here that the American Samoan people were the highlight of the place and we have found that to be 100% true. The interactions we have had with locals here have definitely been a bright spot in an otherwise stressful stay.
Oh, and amidst this difficult period, I turned 60. Life's scoreboard now shows that we're in the 4th quarter. Happy Birthday, Tom. Welcome to American Samoa!
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| Just going with the flow - artwork in Pago Pago |
